It Was Written in the Stars
Sometimes the stars align, and you just happen to be in the right place, at the right time, to realise a bucket list quest.
It’s not planned. A snippet of information becomes an online search. Next thing you know you’re on a train heading through the hills to an iconic destination, to take in a performance that has become a global legend.
And all because of a pandemic. The irony wasn’t lost on us.
The Oberammergau Passion play would normally be held every ten years in a ‘0’ year, but this was 2022. However, the performances in 2020, and then rescheduled for 2021, did not take place due to the Covid pandemic!
So, by sheer dumb luck, we found ourselves in the right place at the right time!
Three Generations Witness the Spectacle, Decades Apart
My grandmother had attended the Passion Play, as part of a European tour she undertook with her son (my uncle), in 1970. I was a young girl then and remember listening to the stories she told of the village, the people and, of course, the play itself.
Then, when my parents undertook a world tour in 1980, they also visited Oberammergau and attended the play.
Since then it had always been on my (Dianne’s) bucket list. However, as many of you will have experienced, life gets in the way. Planning anything that only happens once a decade just doesn’t feature on the radar.
So, when we found ourselves in Europe, and a friend mentioned that the Passion Play had been delayed due to Covid, our schedule was immediately adjusted. Fortunately, we managed to get tickets and our own pilgrimage began.
A Brief History of the Oberammergau Passion Play
You can read a far more detailed account of the origins and development of the Oberammergau Passion Play HERE .
But in a nutshell:
In the early 1600s, Bubonic plague was ripping through Europe killing tens of thousands of people. Oberammergau was not spared and it is believed that the disease was introduced into the village in 1632 by one Kasper Schisler.
The plague took its inevitable toll on the local population. In 1633, in an effort to stop the plague, the townspeople prayed and vowed that if the deaths would stop, they would perform a Passion play every ten years to show their appreciation for God.
The story goes that from that day on there were no more deaths and in 1634 the townspeople fulfilled their vow by putting on the first edition of the Passion play.
2022 was the 42nd time the play has been performed.
The play was performed in the town cemetery for 200 years and then moved to the site where the current theatre stands close to the centre of the town.
Our Passion Play Experience
Ticket Choices
There are a variety of ticket packages on offer. We decided to indulge in the two-night, three day ticket option.
Our reasoning was that this would be a once in a lifetime excursion and we felt we wanted time to be able to stroll the villages at leisure, engage with locals and really soak up the atmosphere.
In the end, we were glad we made that choice!
Accommodation
Oberammergau is a small village and since the play only happens every 10 years, it does not have enough accommodation for the influx of people that happens when the play is on. Consequently the surrounding villages lend a helping hand!
We stayed in a lovely guesthouse in the village of Bad Kohlgrub. The owner, Ingrid, was great. She helped us with so much and was warm, friendly and very knowledgeable. Our arrangement was a bed & breakfast option with dinner included on the night we were not at the play.
This dinner was provided by the Hotel am Wiesenhang – Garni which was just around the corner. The food was delicious, ample portioned and we liked that they didn’t rush us. There was plenty of time to sit between courses and chat over a glass of wine.
We’d been on the go for a few days and to be able to relax and connect was very enjoyable. Funnily enough we met a couple from South Africa whom we had mutual connections with. It made for a very pleasant evening sharing some common interests and stories.
Getting to the Show
Getting to the show on the day was a bit of an adventure in itself. As part of our ticket package we picked up a dedicated show bus in Bad Kohlgrub which took us to an empty piece of land outside Oberammergau. From there, together with people who had arrived from other surrounding villages, we caught a second bus into Oberammergau itself.
That arrangement is designed to limit the number of buses and congestion in the village. It worked well on the way in when it was daylight and our driver could point out the second bus.
The return trip in the dark via a different route and with an extra stop thrown in was a bit more challenging! We were both pleased and surprised to find ourselves on the bus back to Bad Kohlgrub that evening!
Some Passion Play Pointers
How did we get to Oberammergau?
We flew to Munich and then took a train to Murnau. From there we took a bus to Bad Kohlgrub where our accommodation had been booked. In theory you should be able to train from Munich to Oberammergau. However the line was being repaired and hence the bus transfer.
You could also drive in or join a tour group and bus in.
How long is the play?
The Passion Play is about 5 hours long. It is performed in two halves of approximately 2.5 hrs each. There is a break of approximately 3 hours between the two halves during which dinner is served at restaurants and hotels in the village.
Our tickets included dinner at a restaurant in the village. We shared a table with people from various parts of the world. It was a great way to connect, share our thoughts on the afternoon’s performance and discuss where everyone was going next.
What language is used in the play?
The entire performance is conducted in German. But there are programmes provided in several languages. We followed along with an English programme for the first half.
However, while many in the audience used torches to read the dialogue during the second half, which was held after dark, we chose rather to listen, watch, and absorb the atmosphere. After all, the story wasn’t new to us and we had long train trips coming up. So we decided we would read the balance of the dialogue in the days ahead.
Who are the Actors?
The entire cast and support team – some 2000 people in total – are from the local community. Considering that the play is put on several times a week over a five month period, this is a massive commitment.
It also means that more than one actor or actress undertakes the role of the major characters.
We are not seasoned theatre goers, but the title characters were played so well that we were very surprised to learn that they were not professional actors.
And to add to the spectacle, live sheep, camels, goats and horses appeared on the stage from time to time!
What to take with you
A few things people will find of value going to the performances are binoculars, a torch, and a rug/wrap/jacket.
The theatre is open on one side, and so if the wind comes up or it gets chilly after sunset then it could be a very long, uncomfortable experience if you can’t keep warm.
We took binoculars (our bird watching ones!) and used them extensively to get close up views of the performers, their costumes and the set designs.
Oberammergau Village
The village itself was exactly as we’d pictured it in our minds. The murals are painted beautifully, and the gardens and hanging baskets were an absolute picture of riotous colour. Every hotel had gone to a lot of effort to ensure they impressed visitors, and they did themselves proud.
There were a lot of gifts, trinkets and traditional items on sale. We don’t tend to buy much as we keep to a one suitcase baggage allowance. However, we were very impressed with the wooden nativity scenes, angels etc on sale. The skill some of the craftsmen displayed showed real talent.
Is the Passion Play in Oberammergau Worth Seeing?
Absolutely! We loved it. It was a real pilgrimage and an honour to take what my mother and grandmother did and cascade it down another generation. We have a son and daughter, and I wonder if one day one of them will get there to build on the tradition?
Click here to read more about our retirement travels.
