We have visited a fair few cities over the past four decades. Having both been brought up in small rural towns, we are not big city enthusiasts.
Most are forgettable while some have a charm of their own. A very few have bowled us over in a glorious, noisy, chaotic rush.
Naples is definitely the latter.
Situated on the coast beneath the ever present threat of Mount Vesuvius, it’s a place where ancient history, street life, and deeply rooted traditions come together in a way that’s messy, magical, and, dare we say it, Neapolitan.
We arrived in Naples not quite knowing what to expect. We’d heard everything from “It’s dirty and chaotic” to “It’s the most authentic city in Italy.” As it turns out, both are true.
Layers upon Layers of History
Naples is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world.
It started life as a Greek settlement around the 8th century BCE, and was known as Neapolis, or “new city.” Over the subsequent centuries, the city has changed hands many times — Roman, Byzantine, Norman, Spanish, and French rulers have all left their mark.
And it’s a very weird feeling when you walk through the historic centre (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), to realize that you are literally walking on layers of history.
And Famous People
As befitting a city with such a long history, Naples is associated with many famous people who were either born, lived or died there.
Philosopher Giambattista Vico, poet Giacomo Leopardi, and artist Caravaggio all lived or worked here in centuries past. More recently, the famous Italian tenor, Enrico Caruso, was born in Naples in 1873 and died there in 1921.
Even more recently, Sophia Loren was born close to Naples.
Strangely, even though there is an impressive statue of Dante in a big square named after him (Piazza Dante), he never lived in Naples, nor seems to have had any sort of direct connection with the city.
But of course, he is a prominent national figure in Italian literature and culture, which perhaps explains the city square and the statue.
The Birthplace of Pizza
Pizza in Naples lives up to the hype.
Pizza, as we know it, evolved from flatbreads that were common in the Mediterranean region for centuries. It was in Naples, however, that the inspired (and cheap) addition of tomatoes, mozzarella cheese, and basil happened.
The driving force behind the creation? Cheap, easily portable food for the working classes!
We queued for at least an hour at lunchtime to get into Sorbillo, but the wait was well worth it. We’ve eaten a lot of pizza around the world, but nothing quite compares to that first bite of a genuine Naples Pizza.
Art, Statues, and Saints
Naples is overflowing with art, both inside its museums and out on the streets.
We spent a whole afternoon in the The Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli and didn’t see half of the exhibits on display. It houses many of the best-preserved mosaics and artifacts from Pompeii site and is absolutely fascinating.
We also spent a good bit of time at the Museo di Santa Chiara. When you are wandering around it’s gardens, It’s difficult to believe that you are in the middle of a bustling, loud city.
And of course we have already written a blog about the amazing Veiled Christ (Cristo Velato) in the Museo Cappella Sansevero.
But in reality, wherever you look in the “old city”, you will find something of historic value to admire.
Diego Maradona: The Patron Saint of Naples?
To say that Diego Maradona is loved in Naples would be the understatement of the century.
The Argentinian footballer came to SSC Napoli in 1984 and completely changed the club’s history, leading them to two Serie A titles. But more than that, he gave the people of Naples, often looked down on by the wealthier north, something to believe in.
This is evidenced by the fact that even though he left Napoli in 1992, his presence is still embedded in Naples culture.
Murals of Maradona appear all over the city, especially in the Quartieri Spagnoli, where you’ll find shrines, street art, and even candles lit in his honour. For Neapolitans, he wasn’t just a footballer but also a symbol of resistance, pride, and hope.
Even if you’re not into football, it’s hard not to notice Naples’ devotion to Maradona.
Naples Today: A City Alive
Modern Naples is a city that is changing.
It’s gritty in places, but also bursting with colour, life, and creativity.
It’s a city where laundry flutters above ancient streets, Vespas whiz past centuries-old churches, and every corner reveals something unexpected.
There’s been a slow but steady revitalization of public spaces, an influx of younger creatives, and a renewed interest in Naples as a cultural hub, not just a gateway to Pompeii or the Amalfi Coast.
A decade and more ago one would not have wandered around the Quarteiri Spagnoli after dark. Today, it’s a major tourist destination with a vibrant and safe night life.
For us, what makes Naples unforgettable is that it never pretends to be anything other than itself. It’s raw and real and utterly captivating.
So if you’re looking for a city that combines ancient history, rich culture, legendary food, and a dose of chaos, then Naples is waiting for you, arms wide open and slightly sauce-stained 🙂
