Beneath Istanbul’s Streets: Discovering the Basilica Cistern
Just a short walk from Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque, the basilica cistern is an amazing place to visit.
Also known as the Sunken Palace – for good reason – it was built by the Byzantine Roman emperor Justinian 1 to supply water to the Great Palace of Constantinople.
Once we had paid the somewhat eye watering tourist entrance fee, we descended the 52 stone steps into the Sunken Palace.
First impressions are amplified by the soft lighting which accentuates the already impressive sight that awaits you.
So imagine this:
- This was all built underground in the 6th Century
- It is 9 800 m² in extent
- The roof is held up by 336 large marble columns
- Many of these columns were repurposed from older structures and so had to be brought to the site.
The scale and precision of the structure is absolutely mind blowing.
And Some Mysteries to Ponder
There is also wooded walkway built over the water. This allows you to stroll around a good portion of the cistern without getting your feet wet.
It’s an ideal way to take a closer look at the marble columns that hold up the roof. And it’s here that one comes face to face with some of the unexplained mysteries of the Basilica cistern.
The Medusa Heads
These are carved heads that form the base of two of the marble columns. But one is upside down, and one is on it’s side.
Why were these heads used like this? Was it for structural purposes? Or to ward off evil spirits? Or…??
Of course we will probably never know. But it’s these little idiosyncrasies that make an already awe inspiring place even more appealing.
The Weeping Column
Another curiosity you can find on your walk about is the weeping column, also known as the “Hen’s Eye Column”.
The carvings on the column give rise to the “Hens Eye” name while the name “Weeping Column” reflects the fact that this column, unlike any of the others, is always damp. It is thought that this column might have been carved as a tribute to all the workers and slaves who died while constructing the Basilica.
Final Thoughts
While the Basilica Cistern is a fascinating place to visit, it only takes about an hour of slow strolling to get around it, so don’t make it your only activity for the day.
Fortunately the Hagia Sophie, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace and even the Grand Bazaar are within easy walking distance of the Basilica Cistern so there are other options available to visit.
And if you just like sitting and people watching, there are plenty of parks with benches close at hand.
One thing to keep in mind is that the temperature can be quite a few degrees colder down in the cistern and there is a lot of water around – so dress accordingly.
Is it Worth It?
We last visited Istanbul in the late 80’s and a lot has changed since then. Istanbul has expanded and evolved and is definitely a far more cosmopolitan city than it was back then.
But back then, it was a genuinely cheap destination that held a hint of mystery for most Western visitors.
Unfortunately, one of the consequences of this evolution and the increased tourism, has been a sharp increase in prices to visit many of the historic sites. In fact, in many respects, it has become more expensive than many of the traditional European historic sites.
And, as is found in many places nowadays, the entrance fee for tourists is much higher than the fee charged to locals. In principle this is fair enough, but when the increase is upwards of five times more, then one does start to feel a bit exploited.
So, be warned. It ain’t cheap but it is a great experience!
